Testing the senses in Shanghai to find China's best antitourism and off-beat secrets. Dry and sometimes funny observations from a fixed gear roller, food eater and photograph taker.

We bought the little ones a new scratching pad made from compressed cardboard. They like it so much, the fish (which they could surf all day), is long forgotten – see it ignored in the background. The board is so popular they literally queue up for it. Here, Larry looks on whilst Lady maximizes turn.