Testing the senses in Shanghai to find China's best antitourism and off-beat secrets. Dry and sometimes funny observations from a fixed gear roller, food eater and photograph taker.

Legend has it that directly underneath Shanghai’s transport epi-confluence lives a fierce dragon. His lair, right where the Yan’an and Chengdu elevated highways meet, would otherwise have a prime claim to party-wall disputes were it not for a gift from the city – the Nine Dragons Pillar.

That’s the legend. The truth is the pillar is even more profoundly mystical. It is able to dispel bitterness as a result of terrible driving. All that’s required is a honk of the horn or flash of the headlights and one instance of inner peace is granted. Repeat as required.