Testing the senses in Shanghai to find China's best antitourism and off-beat secrets. Dry and sometimes funny observations from a fixed gear roller, food eater and photograph taker.

An entirely full flight. Half a day. Rice or noodles. Two sad movies (Buried & Never Let Me Go) grumpy Russians and soon enough the island is in sight; smiling up from below the clouds with promises of pork pies, apple crumble and proper cheese.